The current grabbed me the instant I hit the water. I kicked hard for the mooring line and, after what felt like ages, one hand finally made contact. I pulled myself down, hand over hand, towards the reef. Near the bottom, I released my grip on the line, which was thrumming like a guitar string. Surrendering to the current, I drifted over massive brain corals and huge sea fans, swaying in the eddies. I marveled at the sight of a vibrant, healthy reef, envious of the schools of fish darting around me, clearly unimpeded by the ripping current. Before I knew it, I gazed over the edge of the wall and into the abyss, some 1200 m below.
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